Tag: Larrend Lacuesta

Could you quickly introduce yourself, tell us who you are, and what you do.

My name is Larrend Lacuesta. I am based in Greater Brisbane, Australia, originally from the Philippines where I lived for the first 16 years of my life. I’m the founder and co-owner of Neuterlab, a genderless fashion label that explores experimental silhouettes. By day, I work as an HR manager and by night, I build Neuterlab. The brand reflects my creative philosophy and quiet rebellion.

You grew up in the Philippines and spent half your life there, before moving to Australia in your late teens. Did moving to Australia help you express yourself and find your personal style and identity?

It’s impossible to compare what resources a 16-year-old may need VS resources a 28-year-old need (when I started the brand). When I talk about resources, I talk about financial independence, creative freedom, convenience in accessing museums, and the space to explore fashion and my personal style. In the Philippines, I was still too young to start anything, and I didn’t have the means to pursue design seriously. However, “maturing” in Australia gave me the opportunity to build something on my own terms. I would say 50% and 50% how I was influenced by my significant other (Karl Leuterio), who is also the co-owner of Neuterlab! When we started dating in 2013, that’s when I really formed my style DNA and it has stayed consistent up until now, if not evolved slightly. Me and my partner, Karl, gravitate toward monochromatic, androgynous silhouettes with a grunge edge and an undercurrent of elegance (at least that’s how I see it).

What’s the meaning behind the name ‘Neuterlab’?

Neuterlab is a fusion of two ideas: “neuter,” as in neutral, non-binary, stripped of gendered expectations; and “lab,” as in experimentation. It’s a space where clothing isn’t confined by rules, rather expressing freely. The name reflects our ethos: genderless, conceptual, and quietly defiant.

You did not study fashion, how did you end up pursuing fashion design and establishing your own brand, what was the driving force behind your decision?

I never studied fashion formally, but I’ve always been immersed in it emotionally. My creative journey started with photography when I was 16, initially self-portraiture. If you want to see some of my photos, I have a separate Instagram page called @ninthsheep.larrend. For over a decade, I used photography to explore my identity. When I met Karl, I found out he was a fashion designer so I wanted him to make something conceptual for me then to photograph them. Karl is THE professional designer, and I was influenced by him. Eventually, I began sketching what I would like to wear. Mainly clothes with designs I couldn’t find anywhere else. That intuitive process led to Neuterlab. The driving force was, I wanted to create a world I could live in, one that felt true to my values. One that felt permanent because it’s in my control.

Was fashion design something that you’ve always wanted to do, or have you pursued other creative endeavors prior, in order to clench that creative thirst?

Photography and short fashion films were my first creative outlet. I released three self-published magazines called Ninthsheep, featuring nostalgic travel photos, self-portraits and conceptual fashion styling with my partner Karl. That visual storytelling naturally transitioned into fashion design. Neuterlab is an extension of that (or vice versa), it’s a continuation of the same emotional language, just in a different medium.

What are some of the biggest challenges that you’ve faced as someone who didn’t study fashion, but also what type of advantages do you think you’ve had based on past life experiences that you could implement into your business model?

The biggest challenge is technical construction. I don’t know advanced sewing techniques, and I’m limited to making clothes on a domestic sewing machine. I have so many design ideas I want to make, that’s why I work with a manufacturer who can execute my designs and sometimes I work with other Australian creatives to make those ideas come to life. The advantage is curiosity will always drive that passion, whether you studied fashion formally or not. Another advantage is learning in the process. I’ve learned how to respect the work of other Australian designers I’ve collaborated with. In addition to that, I’ve studied business, and my professional background is Human Resources so that gave me a strong commercial mindset. I know how to position the brand, manage (small) operations. For example, draw boundaries when agreement is compromised, etc.

Do you think your outlook on fashion design, and fashion in general, would have been different if you attended fashion school or have you always had a certain distinct style and vision in mind?

I don’t think fashion school would’ve changed my outlook. There is so much educational fashion content on the internet. It is the content that you feed your mind at the end of the day. Fashion is a term that is used broadly. If I may inject the term lifestyle, please. That lifestyle is formed through lived experience, through research, museums, networking, fashion films, music, performance art, behaviour, etc. That lifestyle will never stay stagnant rather it evolves as you keep meeting new people, see a new film, hear new music. One thing is for sure though, that the grassroots of that style DNA (once you know exactly the path to take) will stay strong. The style DNA/ or that vision in my mind has always been (in the last decade) androgynous, monochromatic, experimental, and elegant.

Do you draw inspiration from your Filipino heritage when it comes to your designs?

I would like to say yes, the way my brain is wired and how I behave is rooted from my Filipino upbringing and my exposure to Philippine entertainment. That contributes to how I see the world around me. However, if we’re talking about inspiration that is translated into a visual design then I have to say no. I am saying no with a bit of guilt. It never crossed my mind until this question. I am now curious about exploring Filipino art and fashion subcultures, to honour parts of myself.

Could you describe your research process when it comes to creating your garments and collections.

My process is entirely intuitive. I don’t do traditional research or patternmaking. For example, if I’m watching a film and I see a costume I like, I would sketch that, so I don’t forget. If I go to a museum and see a texture, I start to think which hardware store product would closely resemble this texture. If I see someone wearing something cool, I will digest the components of their outfit and envision what silhouette would work on me if I were to wear something similar. To me everything is reinventing. I remember sewing some of my one-off pieces design, I would just start cutting fabrics and sew them based on my vision alone. No markings, no measurements. Just instinct.

Who, or what, are some of the/have been some of the key inspirations in your journey as a creative, as a designer, or in life in general? Is there someone that you’ve looked up to specifically when it comes to fashion design or fashion in general?

Rick Owens’ ceremonial styling, Ann Demeulmeester’s editorial photos, Margiela’s runway show casting, The Row’s furniture and jewellery curation and Patti Smith poetic eloquence. The two who I specifically look up to are Rick Owens and Patti Smith. Rick Owens on his philosophy to learn how to make clothes, work and work and produce and produce to reveal your identity. Patti Smith, because of her uniformity with the clothes she wears and artistic spirit (specially after reading her books) which inspires me to age with grace and imagination. Moreover, Patti Smith for me is a key influence, I feel she is the best link we have to many other artists like Rob Mapplethorpe, Andy Warhol, Lou Reed, etc

Neuterlab also does art-pieces, can you elaborate on the idea and the vision behind it? Is it something that you’ve chosen to do based on previous experiences or is it part of the brand’s world building?

For our November 2023 Collection Launch (the collection has no name by the way), I created framed art pieces to extend the mood of the collection. They emphasize texture, rabbit fur, wires, leather strings, scarred cowhide leather, sharp pins. I have chosen to do this not based on previous experience rather part of the brand’s world building. The art pieces were not enclosed in a sealed container. I wanted it intentionally left uncovered so people who attended the launch event could touch them. It was about creating tactile experience, where part of the clothes can be framed and co-exist as framed art and wearable art. The framed artworks weren’t separate from the garment. They were their echo.

What type of world is the Neuterlab brand trying to build, and what type of message is it trying to convey?

Neuterlab is building a world where clothing is emotional, and self-expression is sacred. You wear it and you instantly embrace your uniqueness. It is a quiet rebellion. One that invites introspection.

On your website, it states that the Neuterlab brand tries to invent new cultures and new aesthetics. Can you tell us more about this approach and what would the end result be once these visions have, in your opinion, been completed?

We’re not trying to fit into mainstream fashion cultures. That means inventing aesthetics that feel personal to me. The end result isn’t a finished product. I see it as a living archive. A slow evolution of my style, my philosophy and emotional clarity. A vision that becomes tangible and will exist even long after I’m gone is something remarkable. So, there will be no end result until my last breath I suppose. To me it will forever be a personal project I share with the world.

You are the second Australian designer that we’ve spoken to, what is your opinion on the Australian fashion industry, and what do you think it can learn from the rest of the world? But also what do you think the rest of the world could learn from Australia?

I think the Australian fashion industry hasn’t yet made a defining mark globally. That said, Australians dress very nicely, especially with their stature, they clearly carry themselves well. I just wish more people were brave enough to dress differently even if they are not attending an event. Regarding what I think it can learn from the rest of the world is to try something different, something that makes you curious and open. What the world can learn from the Australian Fashion industry is… I don’t have an opinion.

What identifies your brand? Who is your ideal customer/fan?

Neuterlab is identified by its monochromatic palette, androgynous silhouettes, and emotional texture. Our ideal customer is an artist, someone who treats clothing as an extension of their creative practice.

What is your brand’s mission within the industry?

To support emerging creatives through collaboration.

Tell us about the founding history of Neuterlab.

Neuterlab was founded in 2021, after years of self-portrait photography and visual storytelling. I transitioned from publishing Ninthsheep magazine to building a brand that reflected my own personal style. Highlights include our multidisciplinary launch in November 2023, and our shift toward higher-quality textiles and collaborative production with other creatives in 2025.

What is the overall visual identity of the brand, and what’s the production process like? What type of materials do you prefer working with, and what type of core values have you set?

Visually, Neuterlab is monochromatic, androgynous, and grunge-inflected with elegance. We work with a manufacturer in China who shares our commitment to small-batch production. We prefer working with cotton, rayon, viscose, mohair, and wool. Our core values are intentionality and emotional clarity.

What message do you want to convey with your collections, and briefly just touch on the different collections, and the thought process behind them. Is there a common theme or are you always trying to reinvent yourself with each passing collection?

The message behind Neuterlab’s collections is simple: self-expression without suppression. I want people to feel like they’re wearing something that reflects their inner world and not just their outer appearance. There’s a quiet rebellion in every piece and refusal to conform to trend and expectation. I’m not trying to reinvent myself with each release. I’m refining, deepening and expanding the same core philosophy. We operate with two collection formats: Mainline Collection – this is timeless and ongoing (limited batches). There’s no seasonal start or finish because we add pieces one by one, intuitively. It’s a living archive that reflects that brand’s DNA: monochromatic, androgynous, experimental, quiet rebellion with a touch of elegance. One-off series: These are unique pieces I’ve created myself or in collaboration with other Brisbane-based designers. They’re spontaneous, instinctive, and often born from a single vision or mood. Each one-off is a moment captured in fabric and singular vision.

Tell us about some of the motifs that you use.

We don’t use a lot of loose visual motifs. There are zippers, buckles, here and there however, our motif is absent… Solid black mainly. It allows silhouette and texture to speak louder than graphics. We focus on emotional motifs: softness versus severity, fluidity vs structure. It’s about how the garment feels and transports the wearer into our world.

Do you have any bestselling products or a product/products that you’d like to highlight? What is the design process, and why have you chosen these garments/accessories?

Our bestselling piece is the Flux Pants. It’s made from 100% rayon and features a wide, flowy silhouette that mimics a long skirt, creating an androgynous elegant shape. The design was born from a vision where I wanted something to look like a skirt but wasn’t. However, the piece that I enjoyed the most making is the Tar Top. That was a one-off piece where I needed to use a mannequin bust as my mould. I used expanding foam I got from a hardware store, then I painted it all black using acrylic paint, carved the shape with a kitchen knife, added straps and fabric lining inside for wearability. It took days to dry, respray of expanding foam, multiple paint layers and I was so happy with the outcome. When I shipped it to the buyer, I had it enclosed in a big box! That was fun!

With sustainability being a key question in the world of fashion, what are some of the measures you take to adhere to these matters?

Sustainability for Neuterlab is rooted in intentionality. We produce in small, limited quantities. We’re moving away from using 100% polyester and now work with higher quality textiles. Our manufacturer in China aligns with our vision for ethical small-batch production. We also prioritise emotional sustainability, creating pieces that last stylistically, not just physically. Our collections aren’t trend-driven, so they don’t expire. They’re meant to be worn for years.